InhaltsangabeList of Contributors xv Society of Dyers and Colourists xvii Preface xix 1 The Structure of Wool 1 John A. Rippon 1.1 Introduction 1 1.2 Composition of Wool 2 1.3 Chemical Structure of Wool 5 1.4 Morphological Structure of Wool 14 1.5 Chemical Reactivity of Wool 32 1.6 Damage in Wool Dyeing 32 1.7 Conclusion 35 References 35 2 The Chemical and Physical Basis for Wool Dyeing 43 John A. Rippon 2.1 Introduction 43 2.2 The Chemical Basis for Wool Dyeing 43 2.3 Standard Affinity and Heat of Dyeing 50 2.4 Classification of Dyes Used for Wool 52 2.5 Dye Aggregation 55 2.6 The Role of Fibre Structure in Wool Dyeing 60 2.7 Effect of Chemical Modifications on Dyeing 66 2.8 Conclusion 68 References 69 3 The Role of Auxiliaries in the Dyeing of Wool and other Keratin Fibres 75 A.C. Welham 3.1 Introduction 75 3.2 Surface Activity of Wool-Dyeing Auxiliaries 76 3.3 Brightening Agents 81 3.4 Levelling Agents 82 3.5 Restraining and Reserving Agents in Wool Blend Dyeing 88 3.6 Antiprecipitants 89 3.7 Wool Protective Agents 89 3.8 LowTemperature Dyeing 90 3.9 Correction of Faulty Dyeings 92 3.10 Aftertreatments to Improve Wet Fastness 93 3.11 Antifrosting Agents 95 3.12 Antisetting Agents 95 3.13 Sequestering Agents 96 3.14 Conclusion 96 References 97 4 Ancillary Processes in Wool Dyeing 99 D.M. Lewis 4.1 Introduction 99 4.2 Wool Scouring 99 4.3 Wool Carbonising 100 4.4 ShrinkResist Treatments 102 4.5 InsectResist Treatments 108 4.6 FlameRetardant Treatments 115 4.7 Antisetting Agents 116 4.8 Fibre Arylating Agents 120 References 126 5 Bleaching and Whitening of Wool: Photostability of Whites 131 Keith R. Millington 5.1 Introduction 131 5.2 Wool Colour 132 5.3 Wool Bleaching 138 5.4 Fluorescent Whitening of Wool 144 5.5 Photostability of Wool 145 References 153 6 Wooldyeing Machinery 157 Jamie A. Hawkes and Paul Hamilton 6.1 Introduction 157 6.2 Top Dyeing 158 6.3 Loose Stock Dyeing 162 6.4 HankDyeing Yarn 166 6.5 Yarn Package Dyeing 171 6.6 Piece Dyeing 178 6.7 Garment Dyeing 179 6.8 Carpet Piece Dyeing 182 6.9 Drying 183 6.10 Dyehouse Automation 186 6.11 Laboratory Dyeing 192 References 203 7 Dyeing Wool with Acid and Mordant Dyes 205 P.A. Duffield 7.1 Introduction 205 7.2 Acid Dyes 208 7.3 Natural Dyes 213 7.4 Mordant Dyes 214 7.5 Specific Dyeing Methods 226 References 227 8 Dyeing Wool with Metal-complex Dyes 229 Stephen M. Burkinshaw 8.1 Introduction 229 8.2 Dye Structure 230 8.3 Dye Application 242 8.4 Environmental Aspects 248 References 248 9 Dyeing Wool with Reactive Dyes 251 D.M. Lewis 9.1 Introduction 251 9.2 Commercial Reactive Dyes for Wool 252 9.3 The Chemistry of Reactive Dyes 253 9.4 Application Procedures 260 9.5 Novel Reactive Dye Systems for Wool 281 9.6 Identification of the Reaction Sites in the Fibre 285 9.7 Conclusion 287 References 287 10 Dyeing Wool Blends 291 D.M. Lewis 10.1 Introduction 291 10.2 Wool/Cotton 293 10.3 Amination of Cellulosic Fibres 303 10.4 Wool/Silk 305 10.5 Wool/Nylon 310 10.6 Wool/Polyester 323 10.7 Wool/Acrylic 341 10.8 Conclusion 351 References 352 11 The Coloration of Human Hair 357 Robert M. Christie and Olivier J.X. Morel 11.1 Introduction 357 11.2 Structure and Morphology of Human Hair 359 11.3 Natural Colour of Hair 360 11.4 Physical Chemistry of Hair Dyeing 364 11.5 Toxicology of Hair Dyes 365 11.6 Oxidative Hair Coloration 366 11.7 Alternative Approaches to Permanent Hair Dyeing 369 11.8 Nonoxidative Hair Dyeing 375 11.9 Conclusion 386 References 387 12 Wool Printing 393 P.J. Broadbent and M.L.A. Rigout 12.1 Introduction 393 12.2 Preparation for Printing 394 12.3 Direct Printing 399 12.4 Discharge Printing 405 12.5 Resist Printing 40

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